Lighthouse Site a 'National Treasure'

2009-04-16 / Front Page

Group Discovers Lakeshore Property Has Historical Significance
By Karen Gould

Leading the efforts to make McGulpin Point Lighthouse operational after more than 100 years are (from left) Emmet County Commission Chair Jim Tamlyn, Chair of the Emmet County Historical Commission Sandy Planisek, and President of the Great Lakes Lighthouse Keepers Association Dick Moehl. The three, who have worked with a team of county residents and the U.S. Coast Guard, met Friday, April 3, to review plans for the May 30 lighting ceremony. Leading the efforts to make McGulpin Point Lighthouse operational after more than 100 years are (from left) Emmet County Commission Chair Jim Tamlyn, Chair of the Emmet County Historical Commission Sandy Planisek, and President of the Great Lakes Lighthouse Keepers Association Dick Moehl. The three, who have worked with a team of county residents and the U.S. Coast Guard, met Friday, April 3, to review plans for the May 30 lighting ceremony. The property McGulpin Point Lighthouse sits on may prove to have more historical significance than a lighthouse restoration group ever imagined. Local historians are researching centuriesold letters that refer to the site and are planning an archaeological survey there, even as a May 30 lighting ceremony is planned for the lighthouse and workers prepare to install replicas of its original equipment.

Following more than 100 years of darkness at the 140- year-old lighthouse, a navigational light will shine again this summer atop its 38-foot tower, on a hill 30 feet above Lake Michigan near Mackinaw City. A lighting ceremony is planned there, and the county will mark the occasion with music, historical reenactments, speakers, and refreshments. The event is open to the public and will be from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., with a noon ceremony that will cast a beacon across the Straits for the first time since 1906.

Just west of the Mackinac Bridge, this rock, which stands about 10 feet high, is referred to in a 1700s letter held in the National Archives in France, referring to the stone that serves as a marker for the region and an indicator of Lake Michigan water levels. Just west of the Mackinac Bridge, this rock, which stands about 10 feet high, is referred to in a 1700s letter held in the National Archives in France, referring to the stone that serves as a marker for the region and an indicator of Lake Michigan water levels. Volunteers will then open the lighthouse to the public Saturdays and Sundays from May 30 through Labor Day weekend. Letters have been discovered in the national archives of three countries that suggest the lakeshore site, itself, may be of great historical importance, partly because it was surveyed by noted Michigan surveyor Aaron Greeley.

Discovering the historical significance of the site just fell into place, recalls Emmet County Commission Chair Jim Tamlyn. The process began when the county was in a lawsuit over property at the end of the road, known locally as Shaw's Hill. During a visit to the area, commissioners spotted a "for sale" sign at the lighthouse. In the legal battle over the property, the commission found the land where the lighthouse sits was deeded to Patrick McGulpin in 1811 by President James Madison. At that time in Michigan, said Mr. Tamlyn, property was deeded in Detroit, Mackinac Island, St. Ignace, and the McGulpin site. The rest of the state was not deeded, and that piqued the commission's interest.

On the lakefront side of the building, an 1868 cornerstone marks the construction date of McGulpin Point Lighthouse. The two-story brick structure includes two brick-covered faux windows, a common design element in lighthouse design at that time. On the lakefront side of the building, an 1868 cornerstone marks the construction date of McGulpin Point Lighthouse. The two-story brick structure includes two brick-covered faux windows, a common design element in lighthouse design at that time. The site surveyor was Mr. Greeley, who wrote a letter to his wife about the property. The letter is now in the Canadian national archives.

Another letter the group discovered was written by a fur trader who tells of camping overnight on the point next to an Odawa war party.

Fifty-five wrought iron steps on the spiral staircase lead from the top of the tower at McGulpin Point Lighthouse to the building's basement. Fifty-five wrought iron steps on the spiral staircase lead from the top of the tower at McGulpin Point Lighthouse to the building's basement. "The more we dig into this piece of property," said Mr. Tamlyn, "we're finding France, Canada, the United States, all of the stuff referring back to this property, and it's held by federal governments in their national archives. It became pretty apparent that the piece of property is just a national treasure."

Other letters talk about how the McGulpins were considered interpreters, speaking French, English, and Indian dialects, and provided food for tribes stopping in the area.

Also, a 1700s letter held in the national archives in France tells about a large rock that sits on the Lake Michigan shoreline. The letter explains that sometimes the rock is underwater and at other times it is on the shore. The explorer writes back to France that the Great Lakes must rise and fall in cycles by up to 10 feet.

The rock, which is about 10 feet tall, still sits on the shoreline near the lighthouse.

"We realized what a treasure was sitting here," said Mr. Tamlyn.

Tom McGrath of the National Park Service visited the site last year and was initially discouraging about its historic value until Mr. Tamlyn told him the land was surveyed by Mr. Greeley. It's a story Mr. Tamlyn enjoys telling.

"He's not thinking about the lighthouse anymore, he's thinking about the piece of property," recalls Mr. Tamlyn.

"'This isn't a county thing,'" said Mr. Tamlyn, recalling Mr. McGrath's words, "this is a national treasure, this piece of property that you people have here.'"

Work is underway to make the property a national historic site, said Sandy Planisek, chair of the Emmet County Historical Commission.

"This is so exciting," she said. "Things are coming together. It's been a great team."

The commission would like to find evidence of early travelers and settlers when archaeologist Wes Andrews surveys the site in the next few weeks.

Last summer, the county purchased more than 10 acres at the point, including the lighthouse, for $720,000 from the Peppler family of Mackinaw City, and now owns about 600 acres there, which it refers to as the Headlands. The lighthouse area will be called McGulpin Point Historic Site.

Following the purchase, county commissioners quickly appointed an historical commission to turn the lighthouse back into a navigational aid and open it for public tours. The group is assisted by Dick Moehl of Mackinaw City, president of the Great Lakes Lighthouse Keepers Association.

More than 100 years ago, said Mr. Moehl, the 10-sided cast iron lantern and optic light lens disappeared from the top of the McGulpin Lighthouse tower. The tower is attached to the two-story brick structure, which also has a full basement. The brick was made in Milwaukee and also used to construct Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse in Mackinaw City.

The group has searched for clues to explain the disappearance of the lantern and optic lens, but even researching Coast Guard historic records and archives has been futile.

"Nobody seems to be able to give us a string, if you will, as to where the metal lantern and the optic went," he said.

Replacing the lantern was not easy.

Initial cost estimates set the replacement at more than $200,000, including building a cast iron lantern that would weigh about one ton and take more than two years to construct.

In a more affordable plan, Moran Ironworks in Onaway will use steel to build the lantern, construct a railing around the deck, and install the pieces for approximately 70,000 in April. The replica, said Mr. Moehl, was designed to be as accurate as possible. Delivery is expected next week.

Once installed, the light will shine about 13 miles and will be visible in St. Ignace and on Mackinac Island. The original light projected 17 miles, said Mr. Moehl, although to match that, the added cost for the high-powered optic and maintenance expense is prohibitive for the county.

The light will serve as a private aid to navigation and the county and the Great Lakes Lighthouse Keepers will maintain it.

"It's going to be a meaningful aid to the mariners," said Mr. Moehl.

The light will have a four-second cycle, with a one-second blink and three seconds of darkness. An optic sensor will a turn the light on and off each day.

Originally, McGulpin Point, like Round Island Lighthouse, provided sailors with fixed white lights, while Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse was a flashing red light.

James Davenport, who was the last lighthouse keeper, manned the light for 27 years.

Over the years, a private home was constructed next to the lighthouse. Now, the Emmet County sheriff lives there, keeping an eye on the secluded property. Also, trees have filled the hillside leading to Lake Michigan, obstructing the view. The county plans for a select cutting of trees to open the view to the water and make the light more visible to sailors.

"To be able to succeed in satisfying Emmet County's vision in such a short period of time was very gratifying," said Mr. Moehl. "The smiles you see in the U.S. Coast Guard, in other historians, and the mariners, it's just very gratifying. It's a win-win for everybody."

From 1913 to 2008, the lighthouse has been in private hands. Much of the wood window trim is original. The original flooring remains in the modernized kitchen. Only an entry room was added to the back of the lighthouse since it was constructed in 1868.

"The private owners did a marvelous job of maintaining the historic character of the dwelling," said Mr. Moehl.

The Emmet County Historical Commission is looking for photographs, artifacts, and anyone with a story to tell about the site and the lighthouse. Those with information may call (231) 348-1704.

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